“But isn’t another coffee place in Portland like bringing coal to Newcastle?” asked an editor at the Oregonian, to which a reasonable response might be, yes, and at how many of these places does the coffee indeed taste like charcoal?
Ristretto (Italian for “restricted,” and a term used for the first sweet burst of espresso) Roasters founder and coffee roaster
Din Johnson handcrafts every batch of beans, roasting them on-site in a vintage Probat roaster. Johnson sources his beans from five continents, often from the farmers themselves, and is committed to bringing out the best of the individual characteristics of each type of bean—the dark chocolate and intense blueberry of an Ethiopia Harrar; the earthy pungency of a Sumatra Mandheling; the soft chocolate tones and light apricot high notes of a Guatemala Antigua Sereno.
“It’s so much like making wine,” commented a vintner from the Willamette Valley, when he learned of the many types of beans, the balance of sweetness, fruit and body that go into Ristretto Roasters’ espresso blend.
While the American renaissance that began in the Northwest two decades ago has introduced the country to some great coffee, it’s simultaneously spawned a lot of over-roasted, over-flavored, and/or stale product. While consumers often associate black, glossy beans with richness and flavor, these beans have essentially had the flavors roasted out of them, the oils on the exterior of the bean ensuring only that it with spoil faster.
All Ristretto Roasters coffees are medium-roasted, allowing the consumer to experience the flavors of the coffee (rather than merely the roast). This can take some persuading, as customers come into the café convinced they only like the deepest, darkest roast. As all Ristretto Roasters coffees are available individually brewed by the cup, it is a pleasure to watch someone previously committed to the blunt burn of, say, a French roast, have his first taste of Java Kayumas Estate, a thick, sweet, syrupy coffee with low acidity and a unique herbal character, an experience that goes something like…
“Wow.”
And to watch the light bulb go on, when he realizes how complex coffee can be, and that there are many Ristretto Roasters coffees to experience, and that there will be others next week.
Johnson roasts coffee every day, and no roasted coffee is kept more than seven days. The café also features a traditional espresso bar, homemade baked goods, mid-century furnishings, a rotating roster of modern art, and free WiFi.
From far away Los Angeles: If I could replace the blood in my body with Ristretto coffees I would. Not only would I feel great, but I'd smell intoxicating, too. Starbucks? Isn't he a character on Battlestar Galactica?
Posted by: david | October 09, 2007 at 09:55 AM
Nice work, Din.
Posted by: joshua | November 05, 2007 at 06:00 PM